Overcoat (mente) - part of a man's outfit
Accession Nr.: | 14882 |
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Place of production: | Hungary |
Materials: | budge; felt |
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Techniques: | braided; embrodiered with flat stich |
Dimensions: |
length: 58 cm
length: 71 cm
length: 54 cm
|
The dress is made of dark blue felt. The attenuated mente with set-in sleeves reaches below the waistline the borders are embroidered with alternating motifs of big and small bunches of flowers, in green and white silk thread. Lined with brown lamb's fur, a later addition. The cut of the waistcoat's shoulders are curved it is attenuated at the back and reaches below the waistline. Its width is adjustable with a lace at the back. The borders and the standing collar are embroidered with the motifs described above. Decorated with white and green silk braids all around. The waistcoat (Inv.nr. 14857.) can be closed with braided buttons and loops knit of silk thread its front lower part has a slanted cut.
This dress represents some special features of the 17th century Hungarian man's fashion: the slanted cut at the front and the braided buttons and loops. On the other hand, these features appear on a waistcoat that, following the fashion of Western Europe, took the place of the typical Hungarian "dolman" in the 18th century. The European influence is apparent on the attenuated cut, as well as on the set-in sleeves and the curved line of the shoulders. The legs of the trousers (Inv.nr. 14856.) are tight-fitting for boots, and are with a flap. The bottom consists of two pieces the cut is identical with the usual type of cut of the 17th century. The side seams are braided and embroidered with motifs similar to those of the waistcoat and the mente.
Literature
- Szerk.: Pataki Judit: Az idő sodrában. Az Iparművészeti Múzeum gyűjteményeinek története. Iparművészeti Múzeum, Budapest, 2006. - Nr. 51. (Tompos Lilla)
- Tompos Lilla: Magyar hagyományok az öltözködésben. Iparművészeti Múzeum, Budapest, 1994. - Nr. 9
- Szerk.: Szilágyi András, Péter Márta: Barokk és rokokó. Az európai iparművészet stíluskorszakai. Iparművészeti Múzeum, Budapest, 1990. - Nr. 6.44. (Tompos Lilla)
- Szerk.: Cone Polly: The Imperial Style: Fashions of the Hapsburg Era. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1980. - p. 83.
- Historic Hungarian Costume From Budapest. Whitworth Art Gallery (Manchester), Manchester, 1979. - Nr. 39/c.
- Höllrigl József: Magyar viselettörténeti kállítás. Leíró lajstrom. Iparművészeti Múzeum, Budapest, 1938. - Nr. 63.
- Masner Karl: Die Costüm-Ausstellung im K.K. Österreichischen Museum, 1891. J. Lo¨wy, Wien, 1894. - p. 7., XXIII. tábla