Dress Code - Art Nouveau
Following the Austro-Hungarian Compromise (1867) and the unification of Budapest (1873), the city developed at a fantastic pace. By the end of the 19th century, it had become one of Europe’s most elegant capitals, not least due to its sparkling social life and significant events. The center of fashion was the downtown, the area bounded by today’s Petőfi Sándor, Váci and Kossuth Lajos streets. Lined up next to one another were a variety of salons, stores for undergarments and hats, and shoe shops. One of the most popular businesses at the end of the 19th century was Monaszterly and Kuzmik at 15 Váci Street, the era’s most distinguished shop was the Girardi Salon at 1 Koronaherceg Street, and Holzer’s on Kossuth Lajos Street served the wealthier segments of the middle class.
Women showed off their latest fashionable ensembles and daywear not only at the horserace track, but also on the city’s promenades, at the terrace of the Gerbeaud Café, in the theaters, and at social events. Margit Island was the center of Budapest life in the summer, at least for those who did not go abroad during the sweltering heat.
Sports came into vogue at the end of the century, and an active lifestyle became acceptable for women as well. This provided new opportunities for them both in terms of dress and recreational activities. Clothing appeared that was simpler and provided more freedom of movement. Sports that had been reserved for men such as tennis, golf and swimming, were now open to ladies as well.
Families, and in particular ladies, expressed their social status, wealth, and rank primarily through their clothes and their jewelry, or tried to cover their lack of status through these. They had to pay particular attention to their precise appearance at various social events, since the newspapers and illustrated magazines made detailed reports. These articles even discussed the dress and hairstyle of the attendees, much to the joy of readers. The married women could appear in more vibrantly colored silks and velvets, while older ladies wore more reserved colors. Gloves extending to the elbows, jewelry made with precious gemstones, and headpieces adorning their splendid coiffures for the ball were essential accessories for women’s fashion. However, we cannot forget the dance cards and fans either, since these could not be left out of the set of accoutrements for ladies attending balls. The period lasting from Epiphany to Shrove Tuesday, in addition to being a time for amusement and charity, was also the season for the “marriage market.” These events provided a good opportunity for girls who had come of age to “grab a husband for themselves.” Due to this, debutant girls who had turned 16 awaited carnival season most of all, generally wearing frilly white tulle or muslin dresses.
by Noémi Csepregi
