Womenswear - “Maya” overall, backpack created within the framework of the In Circulation: Artista Studio project

The “Maya” outfit was created as part of the exhibition series, 'In Circulation' launched by the Contemporary Design Department in 2018. According to the concept, the invited designer will select an object or ensemble of objects from the collection of the Museum of Applied Arts, and will create a new design as inspired by the object(s). The first exhibition in the series was that of Artista Studio. The fashion brand’s designers created three unique outfits and accompanying accessories for three fictional female characters, Olga, Maya and Alba (see also 2019.10.1-2; 2019.12.1-3).

The source of inspiration for the “Maya” outfit is this cup made at the Nymphenburg Porcelain Factory in the late 18th century. The realistic, light-colored imitation wood grain and the minute purple (purpure) paintings that appear to be engravings tacked on to the surface of this cup and saucer attest to high levels of technical and artistic skill. The figure of a horseman in the engraving on the cup and the small stone bridge that can be seen in the background of the landscape in the middle of the saucer are painted in a manner that emulates old engravings. Even the damage to the paper is depicted with such precision that it fools the eye (trompe l’oil). These items with extraordinary ornamentation were considered fine wares that flaunted the mastery of porcelain decorators, and so they were primarily made as ornamental pieces for show.

It was exactly this imitation, moving beyond kitsch, that captured the designers. They started a brainstorming how wood-imitating porcelain could be displayed on textiles. So that was how they found the jacquard moiré which is nothing else but a kind of fake moiré silk. The casual overall is decorated with a tie belt at the waist adding a more laid-back attitude to her look. The imaginary wearer, Maya, loves having fun, doing sports and experiencing her emotions deeply. On the lapel there is a replica of a painting by Gaya Arutyunyan, an Armenian contemporary artist. The color palette of the original painting was adapted to the shades of the porcelain’s purple (purpur). An artwork by contemporary artist Tanja Zabina returns on the yoke of the sleeve. With this pattern the designers wanted to illustrate perception at a visceral, cellular level. Embroidered Hungarian inscriptions decorate the back of the overall, evoking memories of Maya’s journeys. The tailoring of the elegant purple leather backpack was inspired by a trip to Tokyo. Instead of the traditional horizontal zip line the designers applied a vertical one influenced by oriental vibes.