Mitre - with coral embroidery
Materials: | coral; gilt metal yarn; silk fabric; silver thread |
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Techniques: | brocaded; decorated with pillow (bobbin) lace; embroidered; patterned |
Dimensions: |
length: 41 cm
length: 75 cm
width: 33 cm
|
The pattern of the front and rear side is a large palmette-like flower, with a crisped pomegranate leaf below. The pattern of the textile must have been, on the basis of the fragment of the lower rim, the repetition of this flower, turned squarely in lines. The field among these motifs is covered with scroll and flower ornamentation woven only in contours. The coral embroidery follows the interior and exterior contours of the main motif. The pillow lace of gilt metal thread has stylized flower and foliage motifs stressed by coral — and scattered pearl embroidery.
These kinds of baroque textiles patterned and decorated like embroidery, were particularly liked in the second half of 17th century. An Italian textile, similar, but with a different pattern is written down by M. M. Denisova, from the period of the rule of the Tsar Fiodor Alekseiewitch and by Zeminova from the years between 1660—1680. The earliest known mention of it in the Esterhazy treasury of Frakno is from 1766: "Ein Aide Bischoff Hauben mit Paerln und Corallen Besotzt" (OL The Archive of the Treasury of the Ducal Line of the Esterházy Family, Rep. 8. fasc. C. Nr. 48/1, 12)
Literature
- Szerk.: Pásztor Emese: Az Esterházy-kincstár textíliái az Iparművészeti Múzeum gyűjteményében. Iparművészeti Múzeum, Budapest, 2010. - Nr. 22.
- Szerk.: Szilágyi András: Esterházy-kincsek. Öt évszázad műalkotásai a hercegi gyűjteményből. Iparművészeti Múzeum, Budapest, 2006. - Nr. 66. (László Emőke)
- Szerk.: Szilágyi András, Péter Márta: Barokk és rokokó. Az európai iparművészet stíluskorszakai. Iparművészeti Múzeum, Budapest, 1990. - Nr. 1.24. (téves ltsz.mal) (László Emőke)