Men's gala dress - worn by Ubul Kállay, Lord Lieutenant of Csík County
Accession Nr.: | 79.44.1-10 |
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Place of production: | Hungary |
Materials: | leather; mink fur; silk fabric; velvet |
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Dimensions: |
length: 95 cm
width: 43 cm
length: 84 cm
width: 38 cm
length: 101 cm
length: 101 cm
diameter: 27 cm
|
Ferdinand I of Austria was dressed in the spectacular national dress of the Hungarian nobility at his coronation to the King of Hungary in 1830 in Pozsony (Bratislava). It was at this time that a more or less stable version of the Hungarian gala dress was finalised, on the line of century-old traditions, and this style also set the fashion for the 20th century gala dresses. Lavishly braided mid-thigh length coloured satin or velvet dolmans and mentes, tight trousers with spurred boots, plumed high fur-trimmed caps, buttons, belts and clasps set with precious stones were passed from father to son, and the style became an attractive “uniform” for social and official gatherings and political events.
According to the previous owner, the dress was made for Ubul Kállay (1875-1952), the Lord Lieutenant of Csik county.
Mente: The straight mente is cut on the two sides. The collar is rounded and covers the shoulders. The collar and the edges are trimmed with brown mink fur. The set-in, tapering sleeves reach the elbow and are slashed on the outer side of the upper arm. The sleeves are framed by golden metal plaits, with brandenburgs at the top of the slots and on the front. The mente is decorated with button-line braids knit of metal thread: nine on the front, five on the sleeves and sides.
Dolman: The dolman is made of grey silk, with flowery-leafy pattern. It has a tailored and attenuated waist, with a slot at the back. The long sleeves are set in, the collar is standing. Trimmed with knot cord of metal threads, all along the cut lines. Eight pairs of braided button lines at the front.
Trousers: Machine-knit of dark red silk thread. Tight legs, buttons at the front. The side lines are decorated with braids of gold thread.
Tie: White silk, decorated with gold metal fringes at both ends.
High fur cap: The material is identical with that of the mente: dark red velvet. The cap is cut of four sections, trimmed with brown mink fur.
Boots: Stiff legs, flat heels, reaches up to the knees. The curved edge is lined with metal plaits, sequins and a rosette embroidered with bouillon stitch.
Accessories: 47 buttons: Cast silver, gilt. A hemispherical shape of pierced, reducing rosettes, with sunk olivine at the top.
Aigrette: The aigrette is similar to the buttons, though it is larger. The lowest rosette of the clasp is enriched with sunken granade, olivine and pearl without setting. A pearls and a granade hand down from the boughs that spring from the clasp.
Fastening chain for the mente: The chain consists of square-shaped plates, applied with pierced leaves and volutes, with a clasp described above on the two ends and in the middle.
Belt: There are two rings on the left, where the two sabre chains can be fixed
Sabre: The sheath is covered with dark red velvet the end is covered with a gilt, relief silver plate and is enriched with jewels. Engraved hilt, decorated with volutes.
Literature
- a kiállítást rendezte: Batári Ferenc, Vadászi Erzsébet: Historizmus és eklektika. Az európai iparművészet stíluskorszakai. Iparművészeti Múzeum, Budapest, 1992. - Nr. 167. (Tompos Lilla)
- Historic Hungarian Costume From Budapest. Whitworth Art Gallery (Manchester), Manchester, 1979. - Nr. 61.