Dolman - from the wardrobe of István Esterházy
Accession Nr.: | 52.2377.1 |
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Date of production: |
ca. 1680
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Place of production: | Hungary |
Materials: | pillow (bobbin) lace; velvet |
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Dimensions: |
length: 93 cm
width: 21 cm
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Italian dark red cut-pile velvet and lining, point d’Espagne lace, Hungarian tailoring.
The dimensions, sewing technique and lining are the same as those of the dolmans from Pál Esterházy’s wardrobe, and the textile of the lining is also the same as the treasury’s other two dolmans (IM, inv. no: 52.2804 52.2377). The entire surface is covered with lace bands made of gilded silver cord and thread. Repeat pattern of lace: large and small rosettes accompanied by gold leaf shapes and volutes on undulating thick stem. The front fastens with nine “Transylvanian enamel” clasps. The clasp is made up of two hearts on their side, surrounded by leaves, light blue in the centre and decorated with a yellow-petalled flower. The decoration of the heart is similar to a detail of the clasp of the red satin dolman in the Esterházy treasury, but on a larger scale (IM, inv. no: 52.2804.). The sleeve is fastened by ten lobed braid buttons and loops knitted from gold-coloured thread.
Literature
- Szerk.: Szilágyi András: Metallic Thread Lace Ornaments on the Textiles of the Esterházy Treasury. Ars Decorativa 28, 2012. Iparművészeti Múzeum, Budapest, 2012. - 55-74:62. (Erdei Lilla)
- Szerk.: Pásztor Emese: Az Esterházy-kincstár textíliái az Iparművészeti Múzeum gyűjteményében. Iparművészeti Múzeum, Budapest, 2010. - Nr. 11. (Tompos Lilla)
- Détári Angéla: Régi magyar ékszerek. Corvina Kiadó, Budapest, 1976. - Nr. 44.
- Höllrigl József: Magyar viselettörténeti kállítás. Leíró lajstrom. Iparművészeti Múzeum, Budapest, 1938. - p. 16. Nr.16.