Dolman - from the wardrobe of Paul Esterházy

Straight cut, flaring below the waist. It is cut straight from the shoulder seams, has an upright collar and slits in the sides. The velvet is now brown, but earlier descriptions mention it as flesh- coloured or brick-red. The whole surface is covered with a network of harmonically ordered foliage, lilies and small flowers. The raised work is on a linen base the laid metal wires are stitched down in a geometrical pattern. The plasticity is stressed by the alternating use of gold and silver threads of different thickness, and by the contour of the twisted gilt wire. On the spine of the leaves and petals is bouillon embroidery. On the flowers are roses embroidered with grey pearls. The patterns of the front and the back are similar and symmetrical. It is trimmed with woven wire. The lining is light green silk cloth, with a flower pattern brocaded with metal wire. On the front are nine pairs of buttons with diamonds: a large diamond surrounded by three smaller ones. The slit of the sleeve fastens with eight golden buttons forming heraldic lilies. The description in the 1725 Fraknó inventory of the Esterházy treasury is as follows: "A flesh-coloured velvet dolman, with gold and silver thread, and embroidered with pearls, set with diamonds with 14 pairs of buttons." (Inventarium Thesauri Fraknensis Anno 1725. Almarium Sub Nris 79et 80. Nro. 11. — Inventory of the Museum of Applied Arts 236 / 1957.).